However to clarify, a wireless bridge typically requires 2 access points, normally these devices just act as wireless extention of ethernet ports but taking 2 same devices and configuring them to work in bridge mode (you put each others MAC address into them). Then on the other end of the 2nd AP bridge you have a single ethernet port which you can attach a switch to expand mutiple ethernet jacks. Note one can not join a computer wirelessly.
The product you link appears to indicate it is compatable with other devices, just that my expierence I had to have 2 of the same to get a bridge going and then only that bridge exists, no AP for other devices. The wireless bridge again in my experience is automatically configured with security, thus no wireless acesss. Again this has been my experience.
Best of luck, just beware of the cons of going wirelessly. A wired A/B splitter would be better.
My incentive was the following thread:
http://forums.techguy.org/networking/80 ... ridge.html
Notice the Blanc bridge is the same as the GigaFast Bridge that I bought. And the guy has a very similar problem - trying to hook up bluray to his home wireless network.
Now that I read the instructions for GigaFast for wireless bridge (link 2 threads back), it does mention that the instructions assume that the host router is capable of letting other routers connect to it. I am not too sure if my router would allow that. I have the 2Wire wireless router/DSL modem from AT&T:
http://www.att.com/equipment/accessory- ... =&q_model=
Do you know what to look for in its web based configuration utility to know if it will support connecting a wireless bridge to it? However I am not sure if I understand what special should be required on the host router since it should not care if the connection is coming from a wireless device such as laptop directly or from a wired device such as Ooma hub through a wireless bridge.
OK I read that links instruction and it seems as though that router you orderd should connect and not really depend upon your "host router".
The gigabitrouter, should simply act like another "client" and connect to your pre existing wireless network as indicated in the notes.
Give it a shot, its a hell of a bargin at that price if it works out.
In the meantime, it dawned to me that the fact that I am inserting the phone out from Ooma hub into the phone side of the DSL/phone filter in order to distribute the dialtone in the house is actually mixing in with the DSL signal, even though it is able to distribute the dial-tone just fine. I am not sure if I should leave it like that since this also means that the dialtone is probably going all the way to DSL service provider's box. I am sure over there, there must be some logic to prevent it from getting into their servers.
Now even if I am able to separate the two pairs, I will have to use one for the DSL, and the other one will still have contention for phone dial-tone from Ooma or the HPNA link for the scout?? Wow, I never knew I would be facing with so many problems. I wonder if I am alone. I shouldn't be since anyone with DSL would be faced with these problems??? Or may be people don't care about distributing the phone line. And I wouldn't have cared about it either (since the 4-phone cordless system takes care of providing the phone on every room if only base is connected), if I did not have Dish Network asking me to hook up the DVR to phone line in order to get a discount of about $5 per month if I do so (Plus it displays the caller id on the TV which is neat ).
You really do not have "so many problems", its more of "decisions" how to connect things.
I also noticed that my jack said Cat5e on it.
After doing some research I found out that it is actually a full fledged ethernet connector. Yuppeee!
And after looking at the RJ45 connector on the the DSL/phone filter, it only has two wires (red and green) in it. So our assumption was right, landline phone and DSL shared a pair.
Unfortunately I don't see any red wire in the backside of the jack, I do see brown. In other words I am not able to locate which two wires are active and carry the DSL signal. The other problem is that it seems these connections are referred to as 110 type connections and there is a special punch down tool to connect the wires to such connector (thanks to youtube). So I am thinking about replacing the jack with a simple 4 wire jack and hooking up only two of the wires to that jack. Do the same thing on the other jack and I have an isolated connection between the two jacks. I can hook up the wall port of Ooma in one and get the connection for scout on the other The only question is which two. They have to be the ones that are not used for DSL; 75% chance of getting it right if I choose at random.
I have attached closeup of the jack.
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- DSCF7961_small.jpg (23.65 KiB) Viewed 2674 times
Obviously the primary pair is the middle conductors the problem you cant see which wires are the puch down, actually, you cant really isolate the wires unless you have the punch down tool, so your actually worst off, and defenitly need to get a A/B line splitter.
I know you have the other toy coming to play with, so you have options.
While doing so, I also noticed that the filters that I got from my DSL provider (long time back) said phone on one line and DSL/HPNA on the other. That gave me the idea that probably phone and HPNA can live on the same line just like DSL and phone do.
So this is what I did. I hooked up the filter on line 2 of the Walmart splitter, and connected the wall port on Ooma hub to the DSL/HPNA jack and phone port on phone jack of the filter. This setup distributes the HPNA and the phone dial tone on each and every jack in the house on line 2.
In room B I did the same thing. I hooked up the 3 way splitter and hooked up the filter on line 2 and hooked up the wall port of scout on the DSL/HPNA jack of the filter. On the phone port of scout I hooked up my 4-phone cordless system's base unit. I powered on scout and after a little red light dance, it turned blue indicating that it connected to the Ooma hub. And sure enough there was the dial tone on the phone as well as I was able to access the voice mail through scout.
So I am all set. The only constraint is that I have to buy a splitter for every jack that I intend to hook up the phone on. It costs $6 at walmart.
Thank you for your help. Your feedback was very helpful in solving the problem.
Time to cancel the bridge order.