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#83258 by cfb
Thu Jun 16, 2011 9:01 am
I have a hub thats about 18 months old. About 5 days ago the red light was on. I unplugged and replugged several times but kept getting a red light. Checked my internet real quick and it seemed fine. Left it until the next day. In the morning, blue light, but no dial tone and 'no line' on my phone. Turned off the cable modem, router and ooma boxes for 15-20 seconds, powered everything on, got dial tone. Later that day, blue light, no dial tone. Plugged my laptop into the oomas 'home network' port and saw that all the ooma stuff was showing connected and saw no problems. Rebooted, and got dial tone.

This has repeated every day since. At least once a day, sometimes after just 5-10 minutes of connection I get line loss. I dont have a second phone to test with (but one is on the way) but I've replaced the line cord. I also have an Obi google voice box that is on the same router and I've been checking that and its having no problems. I ran a boatload of tests on my internet when the problem is occurring and I'm getting 20-30Mb/s down, 2-4Mb/s up, pings under 30 and MOS scores of 4.2. Not really seeing any other issues with the internet connection and we use it heavily for netflix, etc.

Any ideas? My one thought was that the power supply might be getting weak, but I dont think I have anything comparable to test that out with. Anyone else see these symptoms?

I have one alternative, but I'm not sure how it'll work out. I have a Telo unit from the Beta test that I didnt use after the test was over. I plugged it in yesterday and after a lot of red light flashing and firmware downloading, it came online and works fine. If my Hub is toast, anyone know if Ooma can port my home # from the hub to the telo, if that costs money, and if the Beta Telo would retain its "no fees/taxes for life" status like my Hub has?

Thanks for any guidance. We're have a bad telecommunications week here at my house. In addition to the Hub flaking out, Tmobile is having cell tower problems in our area so we're getting zero signal at the house. When it rains, it pours.
#83265 by thunderbird
Thu Jun 16, 2011 11:48 am
cfb:
Some more things to try:

If you think that your power adapter might be going, compare the voltage and ampers of th Hub and Telo's power adapters, if they are the same, and the plug connections are the same, you might try testing with the Telo's power adapter connected to the Hub.

Powering off the Ooma device for 15 minutes and then bringing it back online gives enough time for the VPN profile to reinitialize on the Ooma server-side.

If you aren't already, try switching from Automatic MAC address, to Use Built In MAC address in you Ooma Setup Pages.
#83267 by cfb
Thu Jun 16, 2011 12:01 pm
The telo's power supply isnt compatible with the hub. The Telo is 5v output, the hub is 12v. But I did find a close match for the hub in my big-box-o-transformers, its 12v, 1200ma to the 12v 1000ma that came with the hub. Booted up okay with it. I'll wait to see if the problem recurs. If it goes a couple of days without losing its phone line, then I'll know it was the power brick.

Which also means we'll know that a hub with a failing power brick will show a blue light, but may intermittently lose dialtone and power to the phone. I think the phone giving me a "no line" error meant it didnt see anything that looked electrically like a phone line.

If that doesnt solve it, I think I'll try placing the hub in between my cable modem and router. That wont be good as a permanent solution, since I'm running a docsis 3 modem and gigabit router, and I do get bursts of Boost enabled downloads that exceed 100Mb/s. I'm doubtful the ooma can route at that speed, but maybe I'm wrong about that. But if it fixes the problem then I know the trouble is in my router somewhere.

Any info on having Ooma transfer my long-time home phone # from the hub to the telo?
#83268 by murphy
Thu Jun 16, 2011 12:06 pm
The Hub is 12 volts DC at 1.2 amps.
The Scout is 5 volts DC at 2 amps.

The Telo is 5 volts DC at 2 amps.

The Telo and the Scout power bricks are the same.
#83270 by cfb
Thu Jun 16, 2011 12:25 pm
Good to know. I have a scout I never took out of the box (came with the hub). If the telo power brick ever gives me trouble I can use the power brick from the scout.
#83326 by cfb
Fri Jun 17, 2011 10:17 am
Well, its different but not in a good way. I didnt lose dial tone, but I got a call and when I answered it both the 1 and 2 lights came on and the ooma light turned red. Lost the call. I rebooted and tried again, but this time a call went through okay and i was able to answer it. So its still inconsistent.

I guess I'll try putting it in front of the router to make sure that my home network isnt an issue.
#83327 by thunderbird
Fri Jun 17, 2011 10:24 am
cfb wrote:Well, its different but not in a good way. I didnt lose dial tone, but I got a call and when I answered it both the 1 and 2 lights came on and the ooma light turned red. Lost the call. I rebooted and tried again, but this time a call went through okay and i was able to answer it. So its still inconsistent.

I guess I'll try putting it in front of the router to make sure that my home network isnt an issue.

How do you have your Ooma connected, Modem-Ooma-Router or Modem-Router-Ooma?
#83390 by cfb
Sat Jun 18, 2011 1:32 pm
It was modem-router-ooma on port 2.

I talked to ooma support and had them transfer my # from the hub to the telo. Almost 2 days now without a glitch, same wiring, connected the same way. So since I swapped the power brick without fixing it, and swapping the unit seems to have resolved it, I guess the Hub itself had an internal problem. Somewhat disappointing considering it was only ~18 months old and sat on a nice clean shelf nowhere near heat or light or vibration. Plugged into a UPS with power conditioning too.
#83401 by allo
Sat Jun 18, 2011 6:09 pm
cfb wrote:It was modem-router-ooma on port 2.

I talked to ooma support and had them transfer my # from the hub to the telo. Almost 2 days now without a glitch, same wiring, connected the same way. So since I swapped the power brick without fixing it, and swapping the unit seems to have resolved it, I guess the Hub itself had an internal problem. Somewhat disappointing considering it was only ~18 months old and sat on a nice clean shelf nowhere near heat or light or vibration. Plugged into a UPS with power conditioning too.


The hub gets Warm- HOT as high 108 F by itself in certain areas, and that is not very good for PC components longevity.

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