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#57329 by fredpb
Fri Jun 04, 2010 11:35 pm
I am trying to get my Scout to work with the second line wiring in my home.

Only the main line was attached to the sockets.

I connected the second line wires to the sockets.

But the Scout does not turn blue.

I use 2 line splitter/adapters at the Hub end and the Scout end.

No joy. It just does not work. Am I missing something???? Right now the only thing I can think of is bad wiring
(4 year old townhouse), or something in the box outside.

Help?
#57330 by lbmofo
Fri Jun 04, 2010 11:44 pm
Do you have DSL on L1? U connecting Hub's wall to Scout's wall port?
#57337 by fredpb
Sat Jun 05, 2010 8:08 am
Yes, I have dsl on L1. I want to keep my landline and dsl. I opend the demarc and I only have one line in there.

I was in the attic and saw no obvious telephone stuff. I know the alarm installer hooked up the alarm line up there, but did not see it, only the power line for the alarm.
#57339 by southsound
Sat Jun 05, 2010 9:11 am
fredpb wrote:Yes, I have dsl on L1. I want to keep my landline and dsl. I opend the demarc and I only have one line in there.

I was in the attic and saw no obvious telephone stuff. I know the alarm installer hooked up the alarm line up there, but did not see it, only the power line for the alarm.

Many times an alarm installer will connect up the RJ31X that feeds the alarm panel using both the first and second pairs - the system has to be able to "seize" the line in case of an alarm report. This save the installer from having to run a new phone cable but will confuse things for the novice installer who follows. You would be better off trying to use the third pair - the green/white ones - as they may be free. Hopefully you are keeping your alarm with the landline since you note that you are keeping it. Did you choose a new ooma number or are you using an "integrated" configuration with your old number?
#57342 by fredpb
Sat Jun 05, 2010 9:25 am
Thanks for the reply!

I chose an ooma number. But it is in a city 40 miles away and is long distance for anyone in my city.

If I keep the Hub, I may reactivate my tracfone (cellphone) which has a local number. Then I will port that number. Hopefully.

I I tested all unused lines for continuity and voltage. They all seem clear. Now I suspect there is a junction box in the attic that I have not seen. I may go up there and look for the alarm phone wire, and follow that. Difficult because I can't get around well.
#57344 by southsound
Sat Jun 05, 2010 9:31 am
fredpb wrote: Thanks for the reply!

I chose an ooma number. But it is in a city 40 miles away and is long distance for anyone in my city.

If I keep the Hub, I may reactivate my tracfone (cellphone) which has a local number. Then I will port that number. Hopefully.

I I tested all unused lines for continuity and voltage. They all seem clear. Now I suspect there is a junction box in the attic that I have not seen. I may go up there and look for the alarm phone wire, and follow that. Difficult because I can't get around well.

Remember that call forwarding all calls on your landline to your ooma number will give local callers the ability to call your old number and still give you all of your ooma features.

As to crawling around in the attic - isn't that why we had kids and grandkids? If they don't live locally, borrow a technically inclined one from a friend - it is amazing how much a young person will appreciate a couple of dollars in this economy. They get to do some service work (and get paid for it) - and you get to stay out of the insulation. :cool:
#57353 by tommies
Sat Jun 05, 2010 3:15 pm
fredpb wrote:I am trying to get my Scout to work with the second line wiring in my home.
...
I use 2 line splitter/adapters at the Hub end and the Scout end.

No joy. It just does not work. Am I missing something???? Right now the only thing I can think of is bad wiring
(4 year old townhouse), or something in the box outside.

Help?

I just want to make sure you use the correct splitter (it's called Line 1 + Line 2 splitter.) There is another kind of splitter, and it's call duplex splitter, which can be used as an inline coupler.

The Line 1 + Line 2 splitter comes in two different version. One has two jacks: one jack is labeled Line 1, other Line 2. Another has 3 jacks: which are labeled Line 1, Line 2, and Line 1 + Line 2.

If you look inside the jack of a duplex splitter, you'll see 4 strands of wire, so is the Line 1 + Line 2 jack of the 3 jack version of the L1+L2 splitter. The Line 1 and Line 2 jack only has 2 strands of wire, and cannot be used as an inline coupler.
#57372 by fredpb
Sun Jun 06, 2010 12:11 am
Yes I am using the L1 L2 splitters.

I dug around the attic and traced wires. There are no boxes up there.

I followed the telephone line and it goes into the second box, daisy chained from the first box. It just disappears down a hole .

The alarm wire goes down the same hole.

The second wall box shows no alarm line?

I don't have a clue where he put the line seizure module. It has to be between the hole in the attic and the wall box. How he did it I have no clue. I am pretty sure that is the problem....the alarm installation.

I can't talk to a tech at all until monday business hours. Unless I call the emergency number, which I don't want to do.

It is an ADT wireless Honeywell (Lynx?) alarm box. I don't know if line seizure occurs in a module in the wall, or in the alarm box itself. If it is in the alarm box, then he cut the wires and inserted the alarm box telephone wires. The telephone would probably go up the alarm wire, back to the second box?
#57377 by murphy
Sun Jun 06, 2010 3:02 am
Standard alarm installation is to run the incoming phone wire directly to the alarm panel. A second phone wire coming from the alarm panel feeds dial tone to the rest of the house. Seizure is done inside the alarm panel.
#57404 by fredpb
Sun Jun 06, 2010 4:10 pm
Thats what it probably is then, the alarm wire is probably spliced to the line going to the kitchen. Looks like another trip in the attic..............

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