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#56875 by hollysprings
Thu May 27, 2010 6:26 pm
I have DSL and have ported the number to Ooma. I went out to the service box and two conductors go into the house, which means that previously I only had one phone line with the DSL. The two conductors are spit before they enter the house with three sets of two conductor wires that are blue/white and white/blue; two sets of two conductor that are black and yellow; and one set of two conductor wires that are orange/white and white/orange. I think at least one black and yellow goes to the alarm system (not using now). Maybe the other black and yellow goes to Dish Network. I would assume the orange/white and white/orange is part of a daisy chain within the house. I have seven different phone outlets in the house. Some of the outlets have double sets of the blue/white, white/blue, orange/white and white/orange. I would assume that they did a partial daisy chain.

I tried splitting the line one and line two at the outlet where the Ooma Core is, then I plug the Ooma into line two. Then I go to another outlet and plug a phone into a two line splitter on line 2. No dial tone. If I plug the phone directly into the Ooma the phone works.

My question is this, should I use another pair within the house wiring such as the green/white and white/green and rewire the second line outlets within the house due to the orange/white and white/orange outside that comes off of the blue/white and white/blue?

I tried cutting the orange/white and white/orange outside to see what would happen and my dsl cut out. What should I do?
#56877 by tommies
Thu May 27, 2010 8:17 pm
From you post
I tried cutting the orange/white and white/orange outside to see what would happen and my dsl cut out.

So this pair carries your DSL signal, you need to reconnect them back for your DSL to work. The orange pair (orange/white and white/orange).

I have DSL and have ported the number to Ooma

So I assume your DSL is dry-loop, ie. there is no phone service from the telco. You now can use the blue pair (Line 1) for the Telo dial tone (blue/white and white/blue)

You need to know (at least) how the wire is run from the jack where ooma is and the jack where you want your phone to be. I think this Dual Phone Line Tester will help. You can buy one at a local hardware store for $5-$10, and the link is just for reference.

I went out to the service box and two conductors go into the house, which means that previously I only had one phone line with the DSL. The two conductors are spit before they enter the house with three sets of two conductor wires that are blue/white and white/blue; two sets of two conductor that are black and yellow] ; and one set of two conductor wires that are orange/white and white/orange.


Is your ooma is near the DSL modem and router? i.e there is only one wall jack nearby? Can you use different wall jack for the ooma dial tone?


You may also need two 3-way telephone splices pictured in this thread.
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=7579&p=53391
I bought a pack(10 2-way, 10 3-way, and 5 tap-in) from Low's for less than $7.

Use two 3-way splices to connect the 3 sets of blue/white and white/blue at the split you mention in the quote above.

if your DSL modem is connect directly to the wall jack (ie no splitter) then the orange pair is wired into Line 1 position, and possibly the blue pair is wired into Line 2 position.

You may want to open the wall jack to check if the blue pair is connected. If not, connect the blue/white to the empty post on the same side of the orange/white, and the white/blue on same side with the white/orange.

You need a Line1+Line2 splitter here. Plug your DSL modem into Line 1. Before plug ooma PHONE port to Line 2 of the splitter make sure it clear, ie have no voltage. If you have the tester, its LED will not light. At other wall jack in the house, plug the phone directly without any splitter. If thing does not work out right away, you might want to by a phone line tester.

The tester will help a lot
*. no light: the wire is clear, no voltage present
*. Red: there is voltage, but the DC is reversed, just need to switch the position of the wires.
*. Green: good, there is voltage (48-50 Volt DC)
#56888 by hollysprings
Fri May 28, 2010 3:50 am
You were very thorough and I appreciate it. Especially with some of the points that I left out. I think with my additional information you will see my continued confusion.

You are correct it is now a dry loop. I had already reconnected the orange/white and white/orange at the outside box.

I already opened the outlet box where the dsl modem and ooma are plugged into. There is one pair of blue/white and white/blue and one pair of orange/white and white/orange that come into the box. When I disconnect the orange/white and white/orange in that box there is still dsl. So I would assume orange/white and white/orange are hooked to the line 2. I already have tried the line 1 and line 2 splitters at both outlet boxes without dsl filters.

Somewhere in the daisy chain I think the outside orange/white and white/orange pair are being used to supply line 1, along with all of the blue/white and white/blue pairs that I mentioned in my previous post. All are connected to the same two pair coming off the outside box that leads into the house.

I realize this is confusing, it is confusing to me, because who ever wired this house when it was built must have been on drugs. It is very illogical. With this additional information, should I use another pair to run the Ooma whole house service off of? Getting the two line tester is a good suggestion, but if I could just use another pair that would eliminate the additional expensive for something I will probably only use once.
#56896 by murphy
Fri May 28, 2010 6:41 am
I would determine what pair is currently wired to the jacks in the house as L1.
I would then put the DSL signal on an L2 pair and only connect it to the jack where the DSL modem is located.
There is no need for the DSL signal to be available at every jack in the house.
In fact all of that extra unterminated wire can degrade the DSL signal.
#56902 by hollysprings
Fri May 28, 2010 7:18 am
murphy wrote:I would determine what pair is currently wired to the jacks in the house as L1.
I would then put the DSL signal on an L2 pair and only connect it to the jack where the DSL modem is located.
There is no need for the DSL signal to be available at every jack in the house.
In fact all of that extra unterminated wire can degrade the DSL signal.


The problem with this is there is an illogical daisy chain within the house. I stated previously that when I cut the outside orange/white and white/orange that I lost dsl. The pair that feeds the dsl in the outlet box are blue/white and white/blue.

I am afraid that on line two that some of the orange/white and white/orange could be crossed with the outside orange/white and white/orange with the dsl on it.
#56935 by tommies
Fri May 28, 2010 6:05 pm
This is a trial and error test.
This will be good for a weekend project. It's not difficult but time consuming. You need a two-line phone line tester I mentioned earlier.

First run: for each wall jack, with the DSL signal on. ie your DSL is working. and ooma off.
L1 status: Off/clear, Green/good, or Red/Voltage reversed -- and color of the wire(s) that is/are connected behind the plate.
L2 status: same as L1 above

Also note on whether there is a single wire or multiple wires connected to the same conductor/post on the wall plate.

If there are multiple wires (probably 2), you need to know which one feeding the signal to this jack (feeding wire), and the others wires will be a daisy chain the signal to some other jack (daisy chain wire). Just remove one wire, and than test for the signal.

If there is daisy chain wire, leave the wall plate open till you complete the test.

Second run:
remove the daisy chain wires at one wall jack, and test to see which jack(s) in the house is/are connected to this jack. i.e. losing signal it previously has. You can test for both L1 and L2 at the same time with 2-line tester. If you only have a single line tester, you need to do L1 and L2 separately with a L1+L2 splitter.

Repeat for every wall jack with daisy chain wires, and take note on which jack(L1+L2) connected to which
jack(L1+L2)

Finally, compare your note and draw a diagram for your house wiring. Without knowing how the wires are run, there nothing you can do. The other option is to pay someone to do the re-wire your house.

If the wall plate does not have Line 1, Line 2 label, the two inner wire strands of the jack is L1, and two outer strands are L2.

With DSL on and ooma off, if both L1 and L2 are lit, then there is a cross some where.

If at every wall plate, only one Line is lit, and the other is off, there is no cross. You can then feed the ooma dial tone to the line (which does not have DSL signal) and run the test a gain.
#56992 by hollysprings
Sat May 29, 2010 2:59 pm
I had a successful porting of my telephone number, so I thought. Friday evening I had no dsl and internet. After a series of unfortunately time wasting calls to CenturyLink, a tech got my dsl and internet working again. This last call of that evening lasted exactly one hour. We got up this morning to find that our email accounts were not working. Again I called. It seems we now do not have an account with CenturyLink anymore, even though twenty five days ago, I called to tell them that the porting would occur and that I would only need what they call "Pure Broadband". I was told it should be seamless if Ooma did the correct paperwork. I was told that because we had no account with CenturyLink our email accounts did not exist anymore. I asked who authorized that our account be canceled and they tried to blame it on Ooma. Anyway long story short, they are going to be able to reestablish most of our email accounts and get the rest of the porting process done. But, we should not expect this to happen until June 4th. Of course at least half of the calls that I had made previously were not noted. This call lasted two and one half hours.

What a bunch of idiots. If all the utility businesses in the U.S. were run like this, we would be screwed. If I was in charge, I can tell you that there would be at least four people that I had to deal with that would not have jobs anymore. And that is not counting the fool that turned off our account.

So my weekend project will be delayed because the last person told me that if I have to reset the dsl modem, that I probably will lose the service. I guess the money for intelligent employees went to the CEO bonuses.

Sorry for the rant.
#58625 by FamiliaDiPaulo
Fri Jun 25, 2010 8:35 pm
Having read most all the posts regarding Dish Network I find no mention of issues with NOT being able to order Pay Per View or Dish On Demand movies using the remote for the Dish Receiver while connected through an Ooma device. From the very first days of my Ooma installation we could see that the Dish Receiver was dialing out to the "Mother ship". We even emailed Support at Dish Network to confirm this, as there was no caller ID showing for the outgoing calls. SO.... the fact that the Dish Receiver and the Ooma were playing nice together with little intervention was obvious. We didn't know that we had a problem until we tried to order a PPV or MOD using the on screen programs and the remote. No matter what we did, we discovered that the Ooma could not complete a connection to the Dish Network system. We believe the fault is with the Dish Receiver. We tried everything suggested in the posts on this forum, including direct line from Dish Receiver to phone port on Ooma, change dial out prefix to 99, run diagnostics and send data (which appeared to work fine).

Has anyone been successful in getting the Dish Network receiver to allow ordering Movies On Demand or Pay Per View when connected to an Ooma. Our receiver does have an ethernet port which means that a direct internet connection is not an option.

We're looking for a solution that will allow us to order our movies online and avoid an additional $5 per movie charge for calling an operator to get the movie.
#58632 by murphy
Sat Jun 26, 2010 2:16 am
The dial prefix is * 9 9 pause
The baud rate must be 9600 or less
ECM should be disabled if possible

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