Need extra help installing your Ooma Hub or Telo system? Let us know.
#3553 by johnz8
Wed Feb 25, 2009 8:59 pm
I have one Scout. After a day of stand alone use of the hub I went to my hobby/ham radio room and hooked up the Scout to test it out. It worked great and ran it for a day. I felt it was safe to put on the kitchen wireless phone base since that phone gets the most traffic and I wanted to start a real test with the family. I messed around with the scout for an hour but no luck. It got stuck (booting) on all the bottom lights on solid. I replaced the wall phone with the one I used in the hobby room and used the same phone wires. Still did the same thing. I kept everything in tact and took it back into the hobby room and plugged everything in. It worked great. So I then took the setup that worked and brought it into the family room and plugged it in. It did not work there and the same lights lit up that light up when I used the kitchen wall jack. The regular phones all work fine all over the house. I am lost for a reason at this point. I assume my phone wires are in parallel to every phone jack. Should I make that assumption, after all, all my house phones work in every jack. I have no clue where to go from here. If I can't get this problem solved and can't use my ooma capability in the 2 highest traffic areas in the house then I have to rethink using ooma. That was one of its key selling points to me.

Please help. I need some clues.
#3557 by voip-ninja
Wed Feb 25, 2009 10:15 pm
This actually still could be a wiring problem. If you connect the scout directly to the Ooma hub and it comes online and will drive a phone correctly but the same hub/phone does not work on other jacks in the home then the wiring is the most likely culprit. Ooma hardware requires twisted pair that meets category 3 requirements since the Ooma equipment runs 20mb DSL type service over the lines. Most homes built since the 1970's have this type of wiring but it's possible in an older home that the wiring cannot handle the higher frequency signal that the Ooma needs.

Another possibility is that you have radio frequency or electromagnetic frequency interference on the lines, or that you have a short. A single short in the pair could impact all lines for the Ooma service, even if you've had no problems with traditional analog telephone service.

You might be able to rent/borrow a line tester that would answer these questions. Another option is to run a new wire pair from the Ooma hub location to the location that you want the scout. Running a skinny twisted pair run is not very difficult at all, even through walls.

Best of luck to you on the endeavor.
#3570 by Soundjudgment
Thu Feb 26, 2009 8:40 am
"" I assume my phone wires are in parallel to every phone jack. Should I make that assumption, after all, ----> all my house phones work in every jack. <----- I have no clue where to go from here. ""

NEW Test:
Remove all of the old phone service from those jacks. No telco service on there at all. You want those Red/Green wires to be DRY. Then you want the Ooma Hub to be feeding any sort of current and signal through those existing house wires and only feeding it with the intention of reaching the scout(s) in question. This should remain true for any additional extensions you anticipate needing. Each RJ11 jack port needs a Scout with a phone hooked to it. You should just try to use the existing (DRY) pair of house wires to transmit the Ooma HUB signal to the Scout unit(s).
#3572 by johnz8
Thu Feb 26, 2009 9:40 am
So are you saying that I should go out to my dmark and open up all 4 wires and float them? Or are you saying that I just need to remove all my phones /faxes etc from all jacks? No problem with doing either or both but I want to be clear on what you are asking me to try.

Soundjudgment wrote:"" I assume my phone wires are in parallel to every phone jack. Should I make that assumption, after all, ----> all my house phones work in every jack. <----- I have no clue where to go from here. ""

NEW Test:
Remove all of the old phone service from those jacks. No telco service on there at all. You want those Red/Green wires to be DRY. Then you want the Ooma Hub to be feeding any sort of current and signal through those existing house wires and only feeding it with the intention of reaching the scout(s) in question. This should remain true for any additional extensions you anticipate needing. Each RJ11 jack port needs a Scout with a phone hooked to it. You should just try to use the existing (DRY) pair of house wires to transmit the Ooma HUB signal to the Scout unit(s).
#3575 by WayneDsr
Thu Feb 26, 2009 10:48 am
What he is saying is to remove the phone service from the rest of the house, unless of course, you have a working landline.
In my telco box, all I need to do is pull out the main jack from telco in. This removes any voltage that may be on the telco line.

I had an issue on my lines because there was a phantom line connected to the main that went no where and must have been shorted out. (old house) It didn't seem to bother the landline, but ooma didn't care for it.
Also doesn't hurt to make sure polarity is ok. I used a 6 dollar checker from my hardware store.

Wayne
#3583 by johnz8
Thu Feb 26, 2009 1:02 pm
Where did you get that checker and what is the brand name? I was going to check each jack tonight. I still have a working land line and I know where to remove the RJ11 plugs at the Dmark when I port my number. Right now I want both for testing phase.

WayneDsr wrote:What he is saying is to remove the phone service from the rest of the house, unless of course, you have a working landline.
In my telco box, all I need to do is pull out the main jack from telco in. This removes any voltage that may be on the telco line.

I had an issue on my lines because there was a phantom line connected to the main that went no where and must have been shorted out. (old house) It didn't seem to bother the landline, but ooma didn't care for it.
Also doesn't hurt to make sure polarity is ok. I used a 6 dollar checker from my hardware store.

Wayne
#3667 by johnz8
Fri Feb 27, 2009 6:27 pm
I went and got a tester at Fry's electronics here in Phoenix. They have everything for geeks. All my jacks test ok but........

It has been years since i messed around with phone jacks. I'm trying to remember what pin does what on the 4 pin jack. I think the inner 2 are tip and ring and the other 2 are ???. The inner 2 seem consistent from jack to jack but not so sure about the outer ones. maybe you can help. I have thios VDSL stuff that delivers TV and phone over CAT5 cable. Theytied the phone stuff in somehow that is not straight forwards to me. Before that the mark was very straight forward. Not so I think. They have the phone line sort of patched into the old wiring. Qwest is stopping VDSL on march 8th and I will get a faster DSL line. I did not see any filters anyplace.

If the out wires are used by ooma then I can see a problem. I just don't remember how the phone stem works and what it expects to see on each wire.

WayneDsr wrote:All the tester does is check polarity, hence the cheap cost.
Red light/green light. Bought it at Lowes.

Wayne
#3669 by murphy
Fri Feb 27, 2009 6:34 pm
The inner pair (red/green) is line 1. The outer pair (yellow/black) is line 2.
In a 4 wire phone cable the red and green wires need to be a twisted pair and the yellow and black wires need to be a twisted pair. If the cable is not constructed as two twisted pairs and you are using both lines, there will be crosstalk between the lines.
#3679 by johnz8
Fri Feb 27, 2009 8:58 pm
I printed out some documents on the web that go into that. The tester is green on all the jacks. Taking the face plates off it looks like all the red and green are constant in what twisted pair is wired to them. That would account for a good polarity check and why the house phone work and have a dial tone.

This is where it gets gray. I don't think the tester is testing the T2/R2 lines or there is no voltage to determine polarity. Each jack does not look consistent but then I am getting tired.

What I need to understand is, does the ooma hardware use the T2/R2 lines or does everything go through the T1/R1 lines. Understanding how the ooma hub talks to the Scout would be a big help. Also does the ooma hardware worry about polarity?

murphy wrote:The inner pair (red/green) is line 1. The outer pair (yellow/black) is line 2.
In a 4 wire phone cable the red and green wires need to be a twisted pair and the yellow and black wires need to be a twisted pair. If the cable is not constructed as two twisted pairs and you are using both lines, there will be crosstalk between the lines.

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