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#109991 by windoor
Fri May 17, 2013 6:13 pm
jciarrocchi wrote:Nothing. No lights, nada. Bought a new one. No help from customer support.


I really do not like repeating "nasty rumors" but I have heard other complaints about the hardware and the two year mark.

It has been suggested that the hardware is designed to "self destruct" at about the two year mark.
That is why they sell an extended warranty for 1 year at approximately 1/2 the cost of a new unit.
About $69.00 if I recall correctly. Seems a bit high to me.

It would seem to make good business sense as the main revenue for OOMA is from selling the hardware.
After that, only new customers and the premier accounts can generate revenue.

Still a good deal at $6.25 per month (plus tax and fees) giving the current cost of the hardware, and I can live with that.

Add in the Premier fees, and it is now 16.20 per month. (plus tax and fees)

As a new user, I will be watching closely as to how long the hardware lasts.

Regards,

Windoor
#109999 by murphy
Sat May 18, 2013 2:52 am
My Hub is now 4.25 years old and working fine.

The weakest link in any device that uses a plug-in power supply is the plug-in power supply (aka wall-wart).

The typical point of failure is the electrolytic capacitors in the power supply. I had to cut open the power supply for my Netgear switch about two years ago and replace all of the electrolytic capacitors.

I have also had to open up my Samsung 40" HDTV and replace all of the electrolytic capacitors in its power supply.
#110007 by ege bamyasi
Sat May 18, 2013 6:15 am
"It has been suggested that the hardware is designed to "self destruct" at about the two year mark." :shock:

Too funny!! Interesting, but I really doubt it. The point about the caps makes sense. In the past few years, brands of higher end computer PSUs have made their use of reputable Japanese made capacitors a major selling point. It seems there was a spate of failures due to cheaper Chinese made capacitors.

I used to work as a tech with a high-end speaker manufacturer in New England. When I bought a pair for myself, I replaced the electrolytics with film capacitors which perform far better and last virtually forever, but are much more expensive and bulky.
#110012 by peabody
Sat May 18, 2013 7:25 am
If the box goes completely dark, the first thing you would check is the power supply. Your multimeter is your friend. And it appears to be a 5V, 2 amp supply, which should be pretty common, getting one with the right connector being the biggest problem.

But if the power supply checks out ok, then I would look at opening up the Telo to look for those capacitors, or anything else that looks suspicious. I would have expected to see Youtube videos by now showing how to open up a Telo, but I don't see any. But if the unit is out of warranty, it seems you risk nothing by opening up a dead Telo.
#110026 by murphy
Sat May 18, 2013 12:30 pm
ege bamyasi wrote:Good suggestions. If you're skilled enough to be switching out caps, you should be able to switch out the connector to a new power supply, if need be.

Yes but it costs money to buy a new power supply.
I already have an inventory of electrolytic capacitors so it only costs my time to repair one.
#110027 by EX Bell
Sat May 18, 2013 1:26 pm
murphy wrote:
ege bamyasi wrote:Good suggestions. If you're skilled enough to be switching out caps, you should be able to switch out the connector to a new power supply, if need be.

Yes but it costs money to buy a new power supply.
I already have an inventory of electrolytic capacitors so it only costs my time to repair one.


Here's what the Telo looks like inside [scroll down]. I see only surface mount capacitors. Very difficult to diagnose, desolder and re-solder without overheating other components or causing the circuit traces to lift from excessive heat. Still, if you're successful, please post your results. Good luck.

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